The sound of rain is delightfully absent this morning, and no, it’s not just because we awaken indoors. It’s amazing what one night’s sleep in a proper setting does for…
There is a puddle on my sleeping bag, and we’ve only been braving this weather for a mere two hours. It is nightfall, and come tomorrow morning, I fear we…
There is no use in voluntarily soaking ourselves to the bone, so we do what never gets done and sleep in, a lazy Saturday rest in our tent, awake and…
Paine Grande is to camping what a discotheque is to a library: utter chaos. Vacillating somewhere between horror and amusement, Graham and I approach the sea of tents with trepidation,…
Guanacos! We have guanacos! We first spy these Andean camelids in Argentina’s Patagonian expanse, their llama-meets-camel figures at the roadside, along the fences, around the bends, and here, they manifest…
The clouds decide to stay awhile, not too bad of a proposition given that once we loop through to Administracion–dropping off 99% of our fellow hikers at Pehoe Lake for…
I am happily oblivious to the fact that my kilometer to mile calculation is entirely erroneous, a blatant misapplication of the 2.2 pounds for every kilogram, so in my mind’s…
The Holy Bible–AKA, Lonely Planet’s Trekking Patagonia–says to hike Torres del Paine’s “W,” and like faithful sheep, we follow our shepherd. Which, here, means attending the word-of-mouth gospel from Erratic…